More on Dushanbe Real Estate
… and how to buy it.
We finally have our apartment in Dushanbe. For a cool $22,500.00 US, we managed to get an apartment on the sixth floor of a nine-story building. It’s a two-bedroom (called a three-room here) with a big balcony, and a separate toilet and bathroom.
The last characteristic is highly valued as (a) people consider it disgusting to bathe in the same room where you defecate, and (b) it’s also inconvenient to wait, and often many people live in these tiny apartments.
Other highly-valued characteristics of our apartment:
- It’s in a nine-story building. These buildings are considered posh, because they must have elevators, and the rooms are much bigger than in khrushyovki (1970s stagnation apartments with tiny rooms and low ceilings).
- We have two balconies, one enclosed with windows on to the street and a view of the center of the city (large, about .8 meters by 4 meters, with a square at the end of 1.3 m x 2 m.) and another smaller one (.4 m x 1.5 m) that is not enclosed, which also has a view.
- It’s neither on the top floor nor on the bottom floor. Because in the former USSR so many of the buildings leak, the top floor is actually not considered prestigious at all. The first floor is not desirable for the same reasons as in the West, in addition to the fact that all of the plumbing often leaks and since the pipes run nearer the first floor apartments, you get a lot of humidity and mold. Also bugs.
- The former owners have built a tapchan on the balcony. A tapchan is a raised place where you sit, wooden with a carpet, and with armrests. In many Muslim and Asian countries people sit on the floor, as a custom. However, it does rain, and in the village you don’t really want to sit on the ground as it can be very dusty. The tapchan was invented to raise the floor up. It’s not really necessary in an apartment, but it’s considered nice to have.
- Good “communal services”, which means that we have a lady who cleans in front of the building and a man who takes the garbage away (unlike in some neighbourhoods, sadly).
- Near to the main road and on the route of three marshrutki and one bus.
- In the 33rd mikrorayon, which means fairly near the center but not near enough to be torn down for one of the president’s screwed up ideas as some other buildings will no doubt be.
- We get our water piped in from a deep resevoir (well), unlike many residents of the city, who get their water from the river (piped). The river water filter has been broken since the war which means whenever it rains, you are basically getting mud in your bathtub.
- There was a “remont-i Tojiki” (remont means repairs in Russian) three years ago, which means that the place is not horrible and disgusting. There are five kinds of apartments you can buy in Tajikistan:
+Evro-remont: Wall-to-wall carpeting, sink is not free-standing (i.e. it’s not sticking straight out of the wall, but instead is like in the West, with a counter around it), bathroom is tiled, there is an iron door, there is an electric water heater, and everything has been decorated in the new Russian style (no orange wallpaper). Usually has an air conditioner and electric heater that actually works.
+Remont, including Russian and Tajik remonts: This means that there has been a repair very recently and nobody has been there since then. All evro-remont apartments are in this condition. Russian and Tajik remonts, however, will just be re-painted, re-tiled, with nothing broken. They may have gas water heaters, but usually use the old heating systems.
+Clean (”chistaya“): Usually has seen a remont in the past four years, but people have been living there. However the walls are not peeling, there are no stains on the ceiling, and the rooms do not smell of boiled cabbage or mutton.
+Bez remonta (without remont): This kind of apartment can range from just being extremely dirty, but which would be livable if only someone would take some disinfectant to it, to an apartment from which all of the windows and doorknobs have been removed, and in which nobody but cockroaches and possibly squatters have lived since the war.
+Barachnaya (literally, barracks, but in this context, in bad condition): No door or doorknobs, no windows. usually will be in a building which is also in very bad condition, whereas bez remonta apartments are usually in buildings which have at least some normal apartments.
Our apartment is considered “clean”, sort of in-between the second and third variants.
Things which are not good about our apartment:
- The elevator doesn’t work. This is a big problem for people on the ninth floor, and less so for us. But the elevators in the neighbouring halls have been repaired by the people living there and we have some hope that we can get our neighbours to pitch in, perhaps if we pay a bit more. Until then, I’m looking forward to the hard ass I’m going to get hiking up twice a day.
- The water is turned off once a day because the government doesn’t pay for running the pump. However, we can run our own pump if we want to, in which case we will get all the water we want.
That’s about it.
Now, as I wrote once before, finding a cheap apartment in the center of the city is not easy. We wanted to buy land at that time, but I forgot to update you all that that finally fell through when the woman responsible failed to get the papers in order.
We really needed to start preparing a home, so I got on the apartment hunt as soon as I got to Dushanbe. Every week I faithfully bought the Advertisement Gazette and Digest Press, the two main papers where people advertise the sale of their apartments. I would then call all of the owners of three-rooms in the areas we were looking at and ask the price. Most people were asking around $30,000 to $40,000 (I found one person selling for $85,000, all because it was in the center… sheesh). I made an appointment with anyone asking for $25,000 or less, after working out a few small details (e.g. were the bathroom and toilet separate?).
Generally, these were people who either had no idea of the house market in Dushanbe, or who were in desperate need of cash (e.g. someone in the family had been arrested in Moscow and they had to go and pay a bribe). Once, I nearly bought an apartment, only to find out that the family later realized the actual market value of the house, and refused. I wanted to scream- why did you put the price in the paper and make me run all around, if you hadn’t even asked three people what they thought you could get for your house???
The folks we finally got our apartment from were quite nice, but unfortunately had come across hard times and needed to get some cash quickly. They didn’t mention the source of the debt, but as a nice family, they probably had borrowed for their car and other things, but weren’t able to pay it off in time. They planned to sell their apartment, pay off a couple thousand in loans and buy a cheaper apartment in a worse location (later they said they found something in the neighbouring mikrorayon, on the first floor).
We were very lucky because when we went to check the papers with one of my husband’s friends, it seems that they all went to university together. So the person was already trusted. This is also key in Tajikistan, because there is a law that if one sells an apartment, he can undo the contract for up to six months after the sale. This is a disaster for the buyer, of course, especially if he invests in serious repairs. He cannot charge for the repairs, unless he decides to sue for that. So it’s really key to buy from good people.
Pictures upcoming.
- Uncategorized | Time: 13.1.27 (UTC+8)
Yay! Congratulations!!!
Comment by Asiyah — 09.06.2006 @ 18.1.00
Congratulations!!! Sounds like a nice apartment. Can I come visit?
BTW-
When I looked for Tapchan on flickr, I found a very cute picture of a dachshund from Kyrgyzstan sitting, I assume, on a tapchan.
Comment by Shannon — 09.06.2006 @ 18.1.01
Cool post! I learned something today, even if it only added to my body of (I hope) useless knowledge.
Comment by carpetblogger — 10.06.2006 @ 06.1.08
Thanks to all commenters, and thanks for your congratulations.
Shannon- that does look like a tapchan, though it doesn’t really show the whole thing. Thanks for that. Was that the only link to a tapchan? Mine won’t really give the full idea since it’s an apartment tapchan, which is not a real tapchan.
Carpetblogger- You never know when you will need to buy an apartment in Tajikistan.
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How is the apartment(one bedroom) rents in Dushanbe?
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